Revamped, tailoring reappears even cooler in the new ateliers – Marie Claire Magazine


Co-founder of the Anacê brand, Cecília Gromann, 23, creates revisited tailoring (Photo: @leticiazambonn)

Just scroll through social networks to notice that the new generations quickly adhere to the most varied fashion trends. the looks girly Y2K, inspired by the 2000s, cottagecore, which comes from the bucolic feeling of nature with ruffles and flowers, and even the very low waist of the catwalks are some of the many that we can list. Increasingly ephemeral, the desire pieces make the minds of hyperconnected young people, who sell out store shelves and fill shopping carts in e-commerces. Despite this, in the midst of a sea of ​​”looks of the day” and colorful items that go viral with dances, more and more people are turning their eyes to a production that for a long time was considered antiquated for the cool kids. The classic and agenre tailor shop.

Always present at fashion weeks, the elegant, body-aligned and structured cuts hit hard this season in collegiate looks, right down to the tie, paraded by names that make the head of generation Z (born between the mid-1990s to the early 2010), as in the body of Korean model and actress Jung Ho-yeon for Louis Vuitton. Made in the most varied shapes, shirts, blazers and pants come from the most adjusted to the overzided and guarantee a place on the podium of what is cool.

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In Brazil, brands are born and have been consolidated in the market with this footprint, which combines the aspirational lifestyle promoted on social networks with the look made up of tailoring pieces, such as the Anacê. “We wanted to create a model that men and women liked. A new tailor shop, under a revisited look, that didn’t look like an ‘office'”, he describes. Cecilia Gromannco-founder of the label.

At 23 years old, she owns one of the rookie brands that was one of the most anticipated by the public at this year’s São Paulo Fashion Week. With a fashion show held at the Teatro da Fundação Armando Alvares Penteado (FAAP), where she graduated, students from the fashion course queued up – and ran to secure seats – to see up close the creations of the label born in the halls of the institution.

Revamped, tailoring reappears even cooler in the hands of new generations (Photo: @anace____)

Revamped, tailoring reappears even cooler in the hands of new generations (Photo: @anace____)

And her audience? Women and men aged between 25 and 35 who, in addition to admiring the pieces, also closely follow Anacê’s posts, whose face is Cecília. “We often post [os looks] on a model, which is very cool, but when I show how I do the styling on a day-to-day basis, there is an identification of the public”, he explains.

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Born in the interior of São Paulo, in Embu-Guaçu, Cecília created the brand with her fellow graduate in fashion design. Ana Clara Watanabe, from Pindamonhangaba (SP), whose first collection was launched shortly before the pandemic, in 2019. Digital natives, they were able to adapt to the restrictions imposed by covid with ease, having invested in e-commerce from the beginning. “It was not traumatic because it was a very new brand and, therefore, its processes are smaller, which makes it much easier to reinvent itself”, he comments.

For Cecília, a good part of the inspiration for the label’s aesthetics came from the look acquired in childhood and adolescence. “I have a very strong family memory. My father worked in an office and always saw him coming home wearing a tie. But he also had a memory of the countryside. Of his uncle who had a farm and wore shirts to carpent a vegetable garden”, he recalls.

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Tailoring has a weighty meaning when it comes to dressing women. Throughout history, wearing pants and suits paralleled advances in women’s rights. “A strong shoulder and a straight silhouette bring this strength thing to a woman. And, for men, a tighter piece or with design elements that can be considered ‘more sensitive’ – that mark some curve or accentuate some part. of the body – are also valid. I think that in the future the term agender will not even exist and we will not even need to talk about gender [na moda]”, ponders Cecilia.

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Another label that targets youth tailoring is the Shop Francescacreated in 2017 by Francesca Monfrinatti and by the designer Leandro Benitesand brings shapes that escape the “grimace”, according to her, who is also a digital influencer of the brand.

Born in the late 1980s, Francesca remembers trying on her father’s blazers as a child and admiring the broad silhouette with prominent shoulders, which she carries with her to this day. For her, a look doesn’t need to be tied to seasonality and a creatively thought piece fits in all situations, like a blazer with a wide silhouette. “I don’t think a piece has to be sold according to the calendar. I want them to talk to each other in any season,” she says.

Revamped, tailoring reappears even cooler in the hands of new generations (Photo: @shopfrancesca)

Revamped, tailoring reappears even cooler in the hands of new generations. Right, Francesca Monfrinatti (Photo: @shopfrancesca)

“I started to notice that many brands leave the basics aside. twist, a well done finish. I’m not inventing the wheel, it’s about composing the basics well done. A white shirt matches a thousand things, so it’s obvious that many brands won’t think about making a super shirt because it ‘doesn’t fit in the collection’. I want to have the bold essential. I want you to look at who wears Francesca and think: ‘Damn, how well-dressed this woman is'”, he describes and cites details that make the difference in his creations, such as Velcro on the cuffs of shirts and on the feet of the pants: “So , you can wear the same pants with straight or fitted shape.”

Leandro still remembers the importance of social networks and the “face of the brand” coming from within the business. “It’s really cool when the brand has this mascot and, in our case, it’s Francesca herself. Who doesn’t have this mascot, nowadays, has a fragility [no negócio]”, he points out.

Innovation is, without a doubt, Shop Francesca’s motto. Another great milestone is being the first national label to produce pieces with mushroom leather. The textile material, made from the mycelium – nutrient-transmitting branches of the fungus – is a sustainable alternative to traditional leather.

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Who also bets on contemporary tailoring is Tweet Brand, who gained fame on social media with her sophisticated beachwear and soon conquered new fans with her expertise in blazers, shorts and linen vests. “We have been tailoring since the first collection, but our clothing line has grown and taken on more body. With the pandemic, we had the first winter collection in which we didn’t create bikinis and it was very well received”, says the founder. Priscilla Simões.

Revamped, tailoring reappears even cooler in the hands of new generations (Photo: @piu.brand)

Revamped, tailoring reappears even cooler in the hands of new generations (Photo: @piu.brand)

“We realized that there is a shortage in the pure linen clothing market, and our customers are surprised at each collection in which we bring the raw material in different ways, showing that it is an outfit that goes from the beach to the city”, continues the stylist.

In addition to the unusual mix above, the recently launched brand Studio Forcefrom the duo of partners and creative directors lived Rivaben and Silvio De Marchialso brings a fresh look to the trend by mixing tailoring and extreme sports.

Forca’s desire is to go beyond the typical conventions of elegance, investing in an audience that understands fashion as self-expression through welcome touches of daring. From young people linked to the current avant-garde movements in culture and behavior, to more mature clients, who know how to recognize what unites modernity and timelessness. “In the past, we were sent to the gallows for being who we are. Today we are the gallows, bringing all the power proportional to that”, says Silvio.

Revamped, tailoring reappears even cooler in the hands of new generations (Photo: @forcastudio)

Revamped, tailoring reappears even cooler in the hands of new generations (Photo: @forcastudio)

The demand for the trend is such that even big names in retail, such as Renner, have also dived into tailoring with different patterns, mix of textures and colors in timeless pieces. They are linen pants, jacquard blouses, vests and overalls that show natural lines and organic shapes.

“The duality between delicacy and the strength that nature has is translated into the collection through the nobility of the raw materials, which, combined with the patterns, textures, color chart, deliver striking looks without weighing down the aesthetics”, he says. Fernanda Feijóstyle director at Lojas Renner.

Big names in retail, such as Renner, also dived into tailoring (Photo: Disclosure)

Big names in retail, such as Renner, also dived into tailoring (Photo: Disclosure)

already the Mindse7 C&A joined the DOD Tailoring (whose motto is “Non-Traditional Tailoring”), which develops pieces with a more noble construction. The result was the limited edition collab Dapper or Dandywith timeless, genderless pieces of varying sizes and oversized shapes, inspired by skateboarding and traditional tailoring.

Collab between Mindse7 C&A and DOD Tailoring (Photo: @hickduarte / Disclosure)

Collab between Mindse7 C&A and DOD Alfaiataria is inspired by skateboarding (Photo: @hickduarte / Disclosure)

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